Quote

Once you choose hope, anything is possible.

Monday, 21 May 2018

New fabric purchases


Tecidos Zarco, three floors of fabrics, in a side road near the Cathedral in Funchal.
Top left brown woven, jacket for work.
Top right burgundy and ivory snake print jersey for a tee.
Bottom left a sheer self stripe fabric for a kimono style layering piece.
Bottom right, ivory and teal print for a jersey tee.
I also bought some invisible zips.
I had a lovely time going through the remnants in the bins.

I used my Sophisticated colour fan from Imogen Lamport and also checked the fabrics aginst my reflection in the mirror before purchasing.

Thursday, 17 May 2018

More wardrobe sewing - SWAKOP at The sewing place

I've now started planning for the wardrobe contest at The sewing place.
https://thesewingplace.org.uk/index.php/topic,4257.0.html

This has slightly different rules to any of the other wardrobe contests I've done, but I could still find a way to make it work for me.
Here is my plan.
Theme stripes
Colours teal and black

Pod 1
Black ponte trousers
Teal and black stripe tee
Black and teal striped cardigan

Pod 2
Black pinstripe trousers
Black and teal print top
Black boucle cardigan jacket

Pod 3
Dark teal trousers
Dark teal top
Turquoise cardigan

Wild card
Dark grey raincoat
(Or may revisit the teal wool coat!)


Tuesday, 15 May 2018

La Maison Victor - issue 3 2018

I bought La Maison Victor Issue 3 2018 in English in WH Smith's.

On the back it says "in this issue" and shows 12 patterns however inside there are only 8. I was a bit sad as I was interested in the Fez trousers. The other 3 missing patterns are children's ones, so not a big issue for me but could be annoying for a mum in a rush choosing from that back page!
Any idea the best way to make La Maison Victor aware of their mistake! (I think the English language people get a cut down version, and these didn't make the cut).

Edited to add. I sent them a message via facebook and they are going to make the 'missing' patterns available on their website somewhere.

Saturday, 12 May 2018

SWAP Voting - now on

It is SWAP Voting time at Stitchers Guild.

If you are an existing member of Stitcher's Guild Reloaded whether paying or free you can vote.

Please take a look through each of the SWAP 2018 galleries located here:

http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php?action=gallery;cat=10

Submit three votes for 1st, 2nd and 3rd place by sending a private message within SG to the user account SWAP_Votes.  The account is shared by the admins so they'll be able to count the votes and inform us of the winner.

Voting can begin as of now and will end at midnight Arizona time (MST) on Sunday 27 May. 
There are 9 collections to choose from this year.

    Aussie28 "Last Minute Nellie" Collection

    Patricia's "Not Your Regular Pinstripe"

    warpjr's Coordinated SWAP

    Medea's Cocktail and Casual Chic

    Demented Fairy's 'More than the Sum of Its Parts' Mathematical SWAP

    Lillie T's Upcycled, Recycled Designer Collection

    Fabrickated's Laid back SWAP

    Sew Ruthie Style SWAP 2018

    What a Galah - Treefrog

As a reminder here are the rules we all worked to.

2018 Seasonal Designer Collection SWAP Rules

You are the Designer. Create a cohesive seasonal collection of eleven garments of your choice.

Concept
Consider designer collections like Eileen Fisher, Karen Kane, Kaliyana, Bryn Walker,  Eskandar, etc  and how they work with a few neutrals, add an accent color or two and some prints.  Multiple styles of pants, tops, jacket/cardigan, dresses, accessories, etc are made from the limited color/print palette. New seasons bring new items that work with some of the garments from prior seasons. Your goal is to create a collection that looks like it belongs together and that you can easily add new pieces to in the future.

This plan will work quite well with 3 pack or 4 core concepts but provides more flexibility. If you primarily make separates you could plan out your outfits using the Sudoku grid by including extra accessories and/or shoes to fill the gaps.  If you prefer mostly dresses or pinafores you’ll need some pieces to layer them with even if you are able to wear the garment as a stand alone.

Plan:
Choose two neutral colors
Add one accent color and two prints OR two accent colors and one print
Make at least three garments from each neutral color
Make at least one garment from each accent color
Make at least one garment from each print
Remaining two garments may be made from any one or combination of your neutrals, accent(s) and/or print(s)
Create multiple outfits of at least two garments that work for your personal style
Each garment must work with a minimum of two outfits

Optional Accessory: add one self-made accessory as a signature piece that works with at least two of  your outfits

Rules
Sewing begins on 26 December 2017 and ends 30 April 2018
One garment may be started on 1 November 2017 and completed prior to 26 December 2017
One garment may be completed prior to 1 November 2017
One RTW garment may be included
Garments knitted, crocheted or woven by you may be included (limit of two since we are a sewing site)
Garments such as poncho, cape or wrap must include at least two pattern pieces, be one of your knitted, crocheted or woven items or have stitch work done by you to be considered a garment (otherwise it’s an accessory)
Neutrals do not need to be the same fabric, however, they do need to work together  **

Prize
I will award a $25 gift certificate to EOS or another online fabric store to the winner

Guidelines (not required but recommended)
Use TNT patterns as much as possible
Limit the number of patterns used since Designer Collections include the same garments made in different colors/prints
Consider using some textured neutrals to add more interest especially if you are a print person
Consider including one trend item based on your chosen season

Terminolgy:

garment: an article of clothing: pants/trousers, skirt, dress, pinafore, cardigan, camisole, tunic, leggings, jacket, shorts, poncho, vest, cape, etc
accessory: an object that is not essential in itself but adds to the beauty, convenience or effectiveness of something else: scarf, jewelry, footwear, wrap, bag, belt, etc
print: a non-solid color such as geometric, novelty, floral, plaid, check, stripes, multi-colored hand dyed/batik, multi-colored brocade, polka dots, etc
neutral color: typically black, gray, navy, brown, cream/white/oatmeal but you are the designer so it’s your choice (denim blue, plum, teal, etc)
accent color:  a color that pops but still works with your neutrals such as golden yellow, safety orange, bright red, lime green, etc
stitch work: for the purpose of SWAP this means beading, adding trim, hand embroidery and/or Alabama Chanin type techniques

** Regarding neutrals:
Using 2-3 different fabrics in the same neutral color is fine however they do need to be roughly the same shade and work together.  While this is easy to do with typical neutrals such as black, navy or white it may be more difficult with other colors so plan carefully.

Fall 2017/Winter 2018 Trends

checks, neutral plaids
florals/garden prints
denim
silver/metallic, sparkles/glitter
red, gold
americana: folklore, patchwork
trench with a twist
feathers or fringe
black leather
polka dots

Spring 2018 Trends
yellow, lavender, orange
bold graphic prints
geometric cutouts
more denim
tassels, sequins
sheer fabric
matching or coordinating fanny pack/bum bag

Friday, 4 May 2018

SWAP 2018 Photos













I love all the pieces!

Top and blouse

 wearing the print tee

and the wrap blouse

In both cases with purchased straight leg trousers.
Even better if I lose just a bit of weight.

Monday, 30 April 2018

SWAP 2018

These are my final choices for the SWAP this year.

Later in the week I'll try to take more photos as per the Photo Guidelines
  • Provide 6-12 photos.
  • Include one photo that includes the full group of garments (plus optional accessory if it applies)
  • Include one photo of you wearing an outfit (perfectly fine to blur face or omit head shot)
  • Additional 4-10 photos of various outfit combinations (these can be on you, dress form, rack, hangar, laying on furniture, whatever you prefer)
  • Every garment must be shown in at least two outfits (as per the rules)
  • Composite photos are allowed (but not required); however they are limited to a main photo and two smaller inserts
  • Photos should be sized to fit the page without scrolling.
  • Photos should be posted by Monday 7 May

Sunday, 29 April 2018

Making a scarf - Part 2

Since the part 1 post, I went out and bought 4 spools of dark teal green thread.
I couldn't match the existing spools exactly so went slightly darker which worked out fine.

I watched the video about changing thread and about threading from scratch.
Given the serger wasn't sewing properly anyway I decided to thread from scratch (rather than knot on), so removed the cream thread and started rethreading as per the video.
It was noisy and kept going wrong. I rethreaded the lower looper for a third time and must've done something slightly different because it started working properly. It was fiddly and I used the tweezers from the kit.

Once I was happy it was doing an ordinary 4 thread overlock repeatedly, I was happy to change it to the settings for the rolled hem as per the video on the rolled hem. I used the needle remover tool as shown in the video which was great and avoids dropping the needle inside the machine (which I have done before on the other overlocker) and twiddled the dials to what seemed to match the video.

The test looked great so I then used the rolled hem on my scarf which worked really well. I fray checked the ends and left it to dry whilst I made and ate dinner. I then snipped the threads and took a photo.

I'm now thinking about all those pretty fabrics which would make great scarves!

Making a scarf - part 1

I decided to make a scarf. This should be a quick and simple endeavour but no! Here's how making a simple scarf can take many hours.

I had in mind a particular fabric. I looked in my fabric cupboard and it was not there, I waited a day and looked again still not there. Another day I moved some stuff around in another room and found some more 'sewing' boxes. I looked in these and one contained the fabric. Yay!
I dumped the 'sewing' boxes in the sewing room 'to be sorted later' and wandered away.

I then went online and looked at various instructions for making a scarf. I really liked this one.
https://indiesew.com/blog/how-to-sew-a-simple-summer-scarf
I also looked on various online clothing shops and looked at how big their scarves were. Things were a mixture of metric and imperial and varied a lot in size, I was confused.
I then rerolled all my existing scarves (noting their wild size differences) and put them in different boxes in a different place. Thinking whilst I did it "Wow I have a lot of scarves, do I really need another one?"

Some time later I laid the fabric out on the table. There was plenty, but I wanted to make sure I could still cut of the Butterick wrap blouse (or something similar) from what was left. So I went and found the pattern, laid it out and measured how wide a strip I could use for a scarf and still cut the blouse. I cut this strip off the side and levelled the edges (as it looked like the assistant had cut it with hedge shears).

I decided I wanted to do a rolled hem on the scarf as used in the indiesew scarf. My old overlocker is all threaded up for my ivory projects and the scarf fabric is teal, so this seemed like the ideal opportunity to get the Bernina 800DL out and use that instead.

I went online and searched for how to convert the overlocker to a rolled hem. I found (again) this fabulous You Tube video (which I have watched before).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yors17wQsPo

I watched the talented lady do her demonstration and thought "that looks easy".
I watched the video a couple of times and reckoned I had it down. (ha ha ha ha ha ha)

I went into the sewing room and found the overlocker in its box under a table. I moved things around and managed to extract the box. I cleared space to set it up, found a screwdriver to reassemble the thread guide. Found it was already threaded in ivory thread and looked OK so plugged it in to go. Did a scrap test. Found that it does not make stitches. Paused a minute.

Came back with the scarf fabric and looked through the 5 thread drawers for matching teal thread. Found 2 spools which matched OK, but that all the others were too light. Wondered whether to buy some more dark teal thread or learn how to do a 2 thread rolled hem as per the other video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AeqLbDsHdlU

Ran another scrap through the overlocker, still does not make stitches. Opened all the little doors and noted that it does seem to all be set up OK from inspection but is not actually making stitches. 

Paused for a cup of tea.....

(to be continued)

Saturday, 28 April 2018

Leaf print tee

I'm really pleased to have sewn up this lovely fabric and am really looking forward to wearing it.
It works really well with the teal items in the SWAP but also with some slightly greener things in my wardrobe as the leaves are several shades.
I bought the fabric in May 2017, so its been in the fabric collection for less than a year (just).

I used my homemade pattern made from a RTW top I liked.
More about how I made the pattern here.
Here's what the SWAP plan looks like now, I just need to make the scarf, if I can find the fabric for it, and take photos!

Friday, 27 April 2018

Current SWAP thoughts

This is my current thought about SWAP, I have a top cut out in the leaf print centre left.

Plan:
Choose two neutral colors - Brown and teal
Add one accent color and two prints - Ivory
Make at least three garments from each neutral color - Brown 3, Teal 4
Make at least one garment from each accent color- Ivory 2
Make at least one garment from each print - leaf print, swirly print
Remaining two garments may be made from any one or combination of your neutrals, accent(s) and/or print(s) - I've used up my options already
Create multiple outfits of at least two garments that work for your personal style -
Each garment must work with a minimum of two outfits - lots of options to mix and match

Optional Accessory: add one self-made accessory as a signature piece that works with at least two of  your outfits
Not currently got one, but planning a teal scarf if I can find the teal fabric with silver in it.

Rules
Sewing begins on 26 December 2017 and ends 30 April 2018 - yup
One garment may be started on 1 November 2017 and completed prior to 26 December 2017 - the teal burnout top is from 19th November
One garment may be completed prior to 1 November 2017 -none currently
One RTW garment may be included -none currently
Garments knitted, crocheted or woven by you may be included (limit of two since we are a sewing site) - don't knit, crochet or weave
Garments such as poncho, cape or wrap must include at least two pattern pieces, be one of your knitted, crocheted or woven items or have stitch work done by you to be considered a garment (otherwise it’s an accessory) - nor relevant to me
Neutrals do not need to be the same fabric, however, they do need to work together  ** - I think they do.

Guidelines (not required but recommended)
Use TNT patterns as much as possible - mostly though the wrap blouse is a new pattern
Limit the number of patterns used since Designer Collections include the same garments made in different colors/prints - yes though I've sewn more just not included them
Consider using some textured neutrals to add more interest especially if you are a print person - a little
Consider including one trend item based on your chosen season - yes have managed this my trends are
Spring 2018 Trends
- sheer fabric (in multiple garments)
I've really embraced the sheer though in a very wearable way.

These are my 4 pieces which have sheer elements (I have more but it was hard to include them).
The brown cardigan is made form a knitted cotton lace, great as a light layer.
The ivory blouse is made from broderie anglaise (eyelet).
The teal top is made from a stretch velvet burnout fabric.
The final cardigan is made from a tie dye semi sheer fabric

Fall 2017/Winter 2018 Trends 
-florals/garden prints (last knit top is leaf print)
- silver/metallic, sparkles/glitter (if I make the teal and silver scarf)

So although I've had to leave out a lot of pieces I really like how this has shaped up.
I need to
- Sew up the leaf print top
- Find the teal and silver fabric and make it into a scarf
- Take photos of everything

Wednesday, 18 April 2018

Ivory Broderie Anglaise Wrap Blouse - Butterick 4395

I used some ivory broderie anglaise from deep in the stash for this pretty wrap blouse.
Being ivory it should work with a lot of pieces without the starkness of white.

I made View D with shorter sleeves due to fabric limitations. I had 2m of fabric, but only of a narrow 115cm width.
I cut a size 18. I cut both ties full length, I slightly angled the back to get a narrower back neck and wider hip. I feel the upper back is slightly too tight so wouldn't do that again. I like the shaping from the back darts. I added 1/2" to the front neckline to reduce gaping and its quite a modest wrap, probably helped by the fact that I don't have a large bust. The sleeves inserted beautifully with no puckering with just the usual ease stitching, so very pleased with how well drafted they are. There's an awful lot of narrow hemming on this and I was getting a bit bored with that by the end, but it does give a nice finish. I like how the wrap is on the striaght grain as this seems to help with it not gaping.
My fabric is semi-sheer and full of holes, so I'll probably wear a camisole underneath, especially for work!


Tuesday, 17 April 2018

SWAP thoughts - another try at balancing the pieces

Here I've split into layers, tops and bottoms, and want to see if I can make almost all the combinations work together.

OK I have 3 teal pieces, 3 brown pieces, 1 ivory item and two prints (3 garments). You might not want to wear the sheer cardigan over the lace tee but otherwise any combination seems to work, thoough I probably wouldn't wear all the teal pieces together!

Simple teeshirt style blouse

I made this simple t-shirt style blouse using my current favourite New Look 6216. I flared it out slightly at centre front and back by angling the pattern piece slightly away from the fold and cut it out of a linen mix woven.
It seems to have worked out OK though it needs a little press. I just overlocked the hems, turned and topstitched with the straight stitch on the sewing machine.

I originally made a skirt in August 2015 using this fabric, so hopefully now have a dress look with the two together.
I am also planning a wrap blouse, but may run out of time and energy before I get to that point!

Monday, 16 April 2018

More SWAP thoughts

Still thinking about how I could assemble the SWAP.
I looked at each colour and the prints, and tried to imagine a capsule where things played well together.

Here are the individual plain colours and the prints and what I am currently thinking.
Burgundy items
Teal items
Brown items
Prints which could be in SWAP.
Other prints which I am not going to use as they also contain a non-SWAP colour.

Here's a set which could work, all the tops (except the plain brown) can work with all the bottoms, and the cardigans each work over multiple tops. I have decided that 'sheer' could be my trend (there's a list in the rules) and the brown burnout items have a bluish section which works with the teals quite well. It may need a little more teaking....
-------------
Ann suggested I should include this one. It contains teal, brown, black and gold. Is that allowed in a print?
It does go with all the bottoms but only with plain cardigans.
Maybe the most variety is obtained by print tops, plain bottoms and cardigans.